Case fitting issues
#3
I think that Ordinary Vanity is spot on. I have never seen a dud shell, but I have seen combinations that require more/different cutting than others.

He's also right that the pins that stick out the "back" of the volume wheel and headphone jack sometimes need to be clipped off.

I don't know why the A and the D-Pad would feel weird. I do know that some people have reported that their silicon rubber button pads are duds. I think it's very rare, but the rubber itself can be a problem. You can find kits of these for under $1 on eBay if you're willing to wait for shipping from China and under $5 if you need something in North America. I might jump to that conclusion on the DPad, but it would seem very odd to me that the B works fine but the A doesn't. I wonder if something else is impeding the travel.

It's also possible that there's some plastic pushing against something (like the volume wheel area as an example) and when you screw the shell together it flexes the board or shell and it causes things (like the A button) to bind. Do the A and DPad work fine if you take the back of the shell off (and are only left with the front with the circuit board attached to it)?

Photos can help, but there's nothing here to pinpoint what to show. If you'd want to post some general photos, maybe one of us might spot something that needs further modification.
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Messages In This Thread
Case fitting issues - by DethDonald - 09-02-2018, 02:52 AM
RE: Case fitting issues - by Ordinary Vanity - 09-02-2018, 01:42 PM
RE: Case fitting issues - by Flavor - 09-05-2018, 02:35 AM
RE: Case fitting issues - by DethDonald - 09-05-2018, 03:51 AM
RE: Case fitting issues - by Flavor - 09-05-2018, 05:01 AM
RE: Case fitting issues - by DethDonald - 09-05-2018, 05:15 AM

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