Trouble shooting

[DarkWind]

The green light goes away completely and the system shuts down 100% and then I can boot it back up.

The dim green light only seems to be there when I boot the system up.

[Flavor]

Okay. I will do a bit of research and get back to you. My guess is that the pin going from the PWR button to the RPi is likely not soldered fully (or maybe broken).

[DarkWind]

Ok sounds good.

[Flavor]

Can you post a photo of the "back" side of your Pi Zero? I'd like to look at the solder. If you want to remove the Pi from the Freeplay Zero (GPA) circuit board, then also show the "front" size of the pins, please. I'll look and label the pins in question.

The best guess now is that Pi pin 38 is bad, somehow. The next best guess would be pin 40.

40 = The pin that actually runs the green LED and can shut down the whole machine.
I'd assume this one is working properly, because you can shut down from the main menu.

38 = The pin that connects to the ON/OFF switch. The ON/OFF also connects to some battery circuitry. When you first press ON, then the battery circuitry gets enabled which powers the Pi. Once the Pi is running, it takes over (via pin 40) and can keep that circuitry enabled. After the Pi is running, the Pi can also read pin38 to see if you pressed the ON/OFF again (like if you hold it in to power down).

So, my best guess is that there's a bad connection between Pi pin 38 and the rest of the Freeplay Zero (GPA) circuitry. It could be a bad pin, a bad trace, or bad solder.

[DarkWind]

Can you post a photo of the "back" side of your Pi Zero? I'd like to look at the solder. If you want to remove the Pi from the Freeplay Zero (GPA) circuit board, then also show the "front" size of the pins, please. I'll look and label the pins in question.

The best guess now is that Pi pin 38 is bad, somehow. The next best guess would be pin 40.

40 = The pin that actually runs the green LED and can shut down the whole machine.
I'd assume this one is working properly, because you can shut down from the main menu.

38 = The pin that connects to the ON/OFF switch. The ON/OFF also connects to some battery circuitry. When you first press ON, then the battery circuitry gets enabled which powers the Pi. Once the Pi is running, it takes over (via pin 40) and can keep that circuitry enabled. After the Pi is running, the Pi can also read pin38 to see if you pressed the ON/OFF again (like if you hold it in to power down).

So, my best guess is that there's a bad connection between Pi pin 38 and the rest of the Freeplay Zero (GPA) circuitry. It could be a bad pin, a bad trace, or bad solder.

I sent them to you via email, because I'm not able to post them here, also I think I'm might see what you are talking about and I might have messed it up by hitting the lines with the solder

[Flavor]

I'm not sure why you can't post the photos here. It may be just because of the size limit. I think that may be set to 2MB. Anyway, I got them, and I do think that pin 38 and 40 could be touching. If they are, I think it would likely produce the symptoms you describe.