09-26-2017, 01:43 PM
First, the screen "lens" can shift a bit. There's some play there. So, yeah, if you have the top good, then I think it's likely as good as it will get.
The right side will never be perfect, because of exactly what you mentioned. There's no more room to move the LCD itself further to the right. You don't want to take that wall down and get it closer to the A/B and X/Y.
Also, I think I mentioned it before, but there's a small area that would be the right side of the LCD that looks like part of the LCD but actually isn't. I don't really know how to describe this, but there's an are of the LCD that looks black like the rest of the viewable area, but it's not. it's part of the construction of the LCD panel, but there are no pixels there. That area is likely what you're seeing as a border on the right side, and I think you can't get it further to the right.
Overscan: There are 2 ways to do this screen "downsizing" when going from HDMI to the LCD. Overscan works pretty well, but it affects all of the output. I feel like overscan works pretty well if you don't care about extra borders on the HDMI output.
But the "new" way that the Freeplay Zero/CM3 does it is with changes I made to the cloning code. There are a bunch of improvements, but the main changes are that the cloning code actually clones the entire HDMI output and then scales it properly for the viewable area of the Freeplay LCD. The one little hiccup here is that the width needs to be in a 16-pixel increment. It's a bit tricky, but I feel like I've tuned it quite well and that it's better than the overscan method.
If you wanted to try going to the overscan method, we could set that up for you. In fact, I've considered adding this as an option in the /boot/freeplaycfg.txt file.
I hope that makes sense. I tried not to get too technical there, but maybe it wasn't clear.
The right side will never be perfect, because of exactly what you mentioned. There's no more room to move the LCD itself further to the right. You don't want to take that wall down and get it closer to the A/B and X/Y.
Also, I think I mentioned it before, but there's a small area that would be the right side of the LCD that looks like part of the LCD but actually isn't. I don't really know how to describe this, but there's an are of the LCD that looks black like the rest of the viewable area, but it's not. it's part of the construction of the LCD panel, but there are no pixels there. That area is likely what you're seeing as a border on the right side, and I think you can't get it further to the right.
Overscan: There are 2 ways to do this screen "downsizing" when going from HDMI to the LCD. Overscan works pretty well, but it affects all of the output. I feel like overscan works pretty well if you don't care about extra borders on the HDMI output.
But the "new" way that the Freeplay Zero/CM3 does it is with changes I made to the cloning code. There are a bunch of improvements, but the main changes are that the cloning code actually clones the entire HDMI output and then scales it properly for the viewable area of the Freeplay LCD. The one little hiccup here is that the width needs to be in a 16-pixel increment. It's a bit tricky, but I feel like I've tuned it quite well and that it's better than the overscan method.
If you wanted to try going to the overscan method, we could set that up for you. In fact, I've considered adding this as an option in the /boot/freeplaycfg.txt file.
I hope that makes sense. I tried not to get too technical there, but maybe it wasn't clear.
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Neo Geo Pocket Flash Cart and Linker Project ( http://www.flashmasta.com/ )
Avatar art thanks to Trev-Mun ( http://trevmun.deviantart.com/ )