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Case fitting issues
#1
I recently got a Freeplay CM3 and I have been spending the last couple of nights trimming down plastic following the guide and some YouTube videos.  I feel pretty confident that I got everything possible but the board just doesn't seem to want to fit into the front of the case.  It fits good in the back of the case.  On the front of the case, the d-pad side fits down to the screw holes but the a-b button side is not sitting flush to be able to screw it down.  I don't see any rubbing plastic or any solder getting in the way.  

I attached some pictures and would love some advice on what I might have missed or where others might have run into similar issues.  This is my first time ever touching a Dremel too, so I am definitely going to have to try to fix it up a bit.


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#2
The speaker wire should usually be routed around the "outside" of the PCB.  It looks like you have it running toward the battery compartment.  This can pinch the speaker wires and maybe cause the issue you're experiencing.

   

That's an older photo, but I would suggest placing the speaker down first.  Notice that the wires are pointing toward the outside of the shell (away from the battery compartment).  Then you can lay down the PCB and the LCD.  On the new board (the one you have), you can then plug the speaker into the main PCB.

Another thing to look for is on the PCB "underneath" the speaker jack and the volume wheel.  These two components have legs that stick through the PCB.  Sometimes their legs are too long and they can contact the plastic.  You can snip the protruding legs off, and you can snip off the plastic that they contact.

   

Another thing is that the PCB you have, as you may know, is from a new batch.  There are some new mods/features on it, and you're helping to uncover some areas where we need to update our documentation.  There is now a post that must be snipped off.  I have circled it in yellow (on your photo) and I've grabbed it with a tweezer on my other photo.  In the pre-2019 PCB, there was a hole for this post.  Now, the post must be shortened instead of protruding through the PCB.

       

I'm sorry that I didn't reply yesterday.  Maybe you already found the solution.
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#3
I will try these tonight. I’m fairly confident that snipping that post is going to fix it based on how the case raises up right around that spot. I was going to snip it but I can be a strict instruction follower. Will post an update later.
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#4
Please post any/all things that you find insufficient about the documentation, if you can. We're so involved with this process that it's often difficult to see it from a first-timer standpoint, and that's who the documentation is for.

It's good to have a strict rules follower like yourself contribute to this stuff. Big Grin
Card Fighters' Clash 2 English Translation ( http://cfc2english.blogspot.com/ )
Neo Geo Pocket Flash Cart and Linker Project ( http://www.flashmasta.com/ )
Avatar art thanks to Trev-Mun ( http://trevmun.deviantart.com/ )
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#5
To be honest, the only thing so far that was missing was the trimming of that post by the A-B button. The pictures in the guide have been perfect for me. One thing worth considering to update in the documentation is that the brightness controller is different than previous versions. This might not impact new customers, but as someone who had been researching this for a long time before purchase, it was a noticeable difference.

As a complete novice to using hobby knives, files and a Dremel, I am still finding this a relative breeze. Some things that have tripped me up are things like best Dremel bits to use, how much to cut, etc.
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#6
Quick update:

Cutting that post did the trick! I also trimmed the other post visible in the picture posted with the tweezers. I'm not sure if this is necessary but I was still having some fit issues.

Now the build is complete with some minor fixes needed.

1) Having some speaker issues with it making some white noise. Saw some previous posts so going to adjust some config settings and check to see if it is fitted properly.
2) L&R buttons are rubbing. I thought I was going to be good here without trimming the buttons but once the screws are fully tightened, they lock up.
3) One of the button caps seems to not want to work. I think it might be the silicone pad for the A&B buttons getting in the way. Is there any other things I should look for when the button caps wont click?

Overall, for my skill level, I'm really proud of how this came out. I will create a new thread when I get a few completed pictures.
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#7
2) On my side, I tightened the screws to the end and slightly unscrewed after to avoid rubbing.
3) Hole near B button look a little off to me, the X and Y button holes touch the keys on the A and B buttons on my build and it work flawless Smile
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#8
2) It seems that the L/R button "caps" often need to be shaved down. I think there are some photos of this in the build document. This is one of the biggest areas where combinations of aftermarket buttons/shells/etc seem to make the necessary cuts a bit on the random side.
3) Sometimes just spinning the button cap will alleviate problems here. If the post is at an angle, it can cause it to not click. Did you glue the cap to the button shaft? If so, if it's not perfectly centered, that's when spinning it can make a difference. I'm not sure if this is clear or not.
Card Fighters' Clash 2 English Translation ( http://cfc2english.blogspot.com/ )
Neo Geo Pocket Flash Cart and Linker Project ( http://www.flashmasta.com/ )
Avatar art thanks to Trev-Mun ( http://trevmun.deviantart.com/ )
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#9
2) I went back and shaved them a bit and it works fine. I was originally trying to see if I could get by without, I couldn’t.

3) spinning the button cap is a good tip. I stumbled into it accidently when fiddling with it. This is also working good now.

Everything is up and running perfectly. Thanks for all the help!
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