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CM3+ Slim with Joy Con Analogs (Xbox layout)
#21
[attachment=992 Wrote:Porcinus pid='8026' dateline='1553497084']I never got my hand on these, I just hope that this will be less "cloudy" than what they look like on pictures.

You don't really have to worry about the internal cutting quality, even in orange clear, little defects don't show that much on the exterior Smile

I’m still thinking of making it a Slim too. I’m in trouble hahahaha. I might be able to figure it out; I have a couple ideas to try.    
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#22
You can easily get "transparent" sheet of plastic form hardware store, the real problem is to get one compatible with ABS.
In my case, Acrylic plastic can fuse pretty well with ABS. Don't buy Polystyrene or Polycarbonate sheet, You will get no good result with it.

You can not use Acetone to fuse transparent ABS, this will leave heavy "whitish" trace and maybe cracks.

To my knowledge, you can use something like Chloroform, this is used to fuse Acrylic plastic (PMMA, Plexyglass) with almost no traces BUT this is a solvent that need to be store with specific condition, 0 exposure to UV (even from the sun) or it will degrade from the time and transform to Phosgene (a Trench gaz used during WWI).
It is a easier way but way too dangerous for me.

Something you can try to do is to make a Silicone mold of the back shell of your Slim version and cast it with Epoxy or Polyester resin.

For my build, I think I will go for the purple transparent shell, Not sure the transparent one will have a good visual so I will make test on it Wink
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#23
(03-26-2019, 10:03 PM)Porcinus Wrote: You can easily get "transparent" sheet of plastic form hardware store, the real problem is to get one compatible with ABS.
In my case, Acrylic plastic can fuse pretty well with ABS. Don't buy Polystyrene or Polycarbonate sheet, You will get no good result with it.

You can not use Acetone to fuse transparent ABS, this will leave heavy "whitish" trace and maybe cracks.

To my knowledge, you can use something like Chloroform, this is used to fuse Acrylic plastic (PMMA, Plexyglass) with almost no traces BUT this is a solvent that need to be store with specific condition, 0 exposure to UV (even from the sun) or it will degrade from the time and transform to Phosgene (a Trench gaz used during WWI).
It is a easier way but way too dangerous for me.

Something you can try to do is to make a Silicone mold of the back shell of your Slim version and cast it with Epoxy or Polyester resin.

For my build, I think I will go for the purple transparent shell, Not sure the transparent one will have a good visual so I will make test on it Wink

That’s some good info, thanks. I have an idea of how to do it differently. Not sure if it’ll work yet. I know exactly what you mean about clear electronics not looking great a lot of the time, but I’m hoping this will be one of the cool looking ones. If it works the way I want, it’ll be nice. That’s a BIG “if” though.
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#24
I made some test on old orange transparent pieces I had on hand using clear modelmaking glue with great visual result, the only downside is the time it take to fully cure at core of the material.
Sadly I don't have a English link to share for it : http://www.pattex.fr/Pattex/produits-pat...uette.html

Found this but not sure it is transparent after curing : https://www.humbrol.com/us-en/shop/adhes...ottle.html
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#25
I received 2 pairs of shell today, glacier (not transparent) and purple (blue with white light, purple with natural light). I will go for the purple one for my next built.
I know there is no real possible complain for the price these shell but there is 2 shell with "cold" molding and one with a repaired but not re-polished mold.
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#26
(04-06-2019, 11:23 PM)Porcinus Wrote: I received 2 pairs of shell today, glacier (not transparent) and purple (blue with white light, purple with natural light). I will go for the purple one for my next built.
I know there is no real possible complain for the price these shell but there is 2 shell with "cold" molding and one with a repaired but not re-polished mold.

What is “cold” molding and the other not re-polished mold?. I received both of my clear shells the other day and I’ve been working on them here and there. I have the slim part pretty much finished! I was able to use the original back part of the shell. I used a jewelers saw to cleanly cut it off, and then using a combination of heat gun and oven baking I flattened it out. Then I reattached it with clear epoxy. It’s not perfect, but it’s usable. I still have some cleanup on it, and then to finish up the build. 

Oh yes I have a question for you too: do you know where I could buy transparent 3DS slider caps? I have black caps on order, but I’m thinking of a different design scheme possibility with clear 3DS sliders.


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#27
For cold molding, most of the time you can identify this when you see "waves" on flat surface.
For "not re-polished mold", injection mold wear with time, on the style of part, they usually correct defect with a Dremel, in my case they missed to re-polish the mold after :/

You shell look really clear, can you give me a link please Smile

I am curious to know how you will clean the shell, on my side I have thinked about sand blasting for one time but the result will be horrible :/

On my side, I am working on the front shell, I had to fill Dpad, Start/Select and A/B button holes, I want to move Dpad on the bottom and have a similar ABXY buttons position as the SNES controller but more tilted.
I will send you picture of my current progress tomorrow via email Smile

For the 3DS caps, I think I only found the same links as you. I know there are clear PSP 1000 stick cap, theses look similar to 2DS/3DS cap.
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#28
(04-07-2019, 12:09 PM)Porcinus Wrote: For cold molding, most of the time you can identify this when you see "waves" on flat surface.
For "not re-polished mold", injection mold wear with time, on the style of part, they usually correct defect with a Dremel, in my case they missed to re-polish the mold after :/

You shell look really clear, can you give me a link please Smile

I am curious to know how you will clean the shell, on my side I have thinked about sand blasting for one time but the result will be horrible :/

On my side, I am working on the front shell, I had to fill Dpad, Start/Select and A/B button holes, I want to move Dpad on the bottom and have a similar ABXY buttons position as the SNES controller but more tilted.
I will send you picture of my current progress tomorrow via email Smile

For the 3DS caps, I think I only found the same links as you, I will try to found something Wink
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#29
Oups?

I know there are clear PSP 1000 stick cap, theses look to have a similar fixing system as 2DS/3DS cap.
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#30
I have the link here, but I don’t recommend them. I ordered 2 shells and both were not in perfect condition. There was damage on all 4 pieces, but I decided to try to work around the damage and go head with the build instead of waiting for a replacement. I don’t know how to clean up the plastic perfectly. I’ve been trying different things to get the work done and have been trying to be really careful. I use my Dremel tool super carefully, and then I use a rounded craft knife to scrape the edges smooth. So far I have a few ugly spots, some nicks here and there and the clear epoxy don’t look great. I had thought from the beginning to cover some parts strategically with black leathery decals, but I’m not sure yet. I did test using acetone on the inside of the shell. I used a Q-tip and rubbed the acetone in one small area to test, and surprisingly it didn’t damage the plastic. Instead it made that area even clearer. I’m not planning on using that technique for anything yet, but I thought it was kind of interesting.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2274380777

Man it sounds like you’re doing something cool with your build, but I have no idea in my head of what it might look like. Looking forward to seeing it Smile
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